Makes a hard woman stumble
Running in Bangkok is not for the faint hearted. It’s hot, it’s humid and running on the road requires high level dodging skills. Past the potholes, other pedestrians, motor bikes on the footpath and when crossing every little alley as vehicles of all kinds speed out. Thankfully Bangkok has a lot of great parks, where you can join the crowds of locals getting out, mostly in the early morning, for their turn about an open space.
My personal favourite is Lumphini Park. Located on the border of the Silom and Lumphini areas of the city, it’s really easy to get to via MRT (subway) or BTS (skytrain). Silom and Lumphini MRT stations are at either end of the park and Sala Daeng BTS is just a short walk away. So no excuses!
Once you’re in the pars, you can feel the temperature cool, the air freshen and the constant vigilance you need for walking the streets, fade away. The main running loop is a flat 2.5km around the perimeter of the park. Easy right? Even with the greenery and shade keeping the temperature down, it was 28℃ and 85% humidity, as I set of for my morning run, an quick 5kms.
I settled into my first km and was enjoying myself. Feeling part of the city, as I joined the steady stream of runners and walkers heading along the side of the smaller of Lumphini’s two lakes. Keeping my pace at a comfortable 5½ mins/km, I watched the groups of older Thai’s doing their thai chi and the mostly younger groups, strutting their stuff at the park exercise stations. It was so nice to see the park so alive and needed by everyone.
As my watch beeped 2km, the heat was really starting to take it’s toll. Promising myself a little break at 3km, I stumbled onwards. The woman in front of me was wearing a now saturated t-shirt, proclaiming “fly human fly”. Funny, all I could think was, “just keep swimming, just keep swimming”. Which by now was what I felt like I was doing, pulling myself through the humidity.
I hit 3km, time for that rest and to gather my resolved to push on. 3.5km – fuuuuuuuuck, what am I doing, I could still be in bed with my husband right now. Then suddenly patriotic music starts blaring out of the park speakers, everyone slows and stops, standing wherever they are, looking towards the sound. Not wanting to be disrespectful of local customs, I join the rest of the sweaty throng. It was nothing to do with a strong desire to stop running, I promise. As the 8am National Anthem finishes its last bar, we all drag our feet and start the slog again.
Noting my reduced pace as I push along, got to get to 5km. “Just keep swimming Amelia” running through my head. Slowing only briefly to navigate the famous Lumphini park Asian Water Monitor holding court in the middle of the path. I’ve once seen one of these giant lizards eat a pigeon, I keep my distance with the rest of the locals.
700m to go, come on Amelia, dig in! Finally beep beep beep, my watch confirms, 5km done – thank god! As my breath slows, I can again appreciate the beauty of this place, in this crazy big city. It was worth every minute of pain. Now for the best bit, coffee stop on the way home.
Running or walking this park, or any of Bangkok’s parks, gives you an insight into the life of this city, particularly if you head out early or as the sun starts to go down and looses its sting. Watching the city gather and move together in their daily routine, always helps me to feel like I’ve discovered more of this wonderful place.
If you also love the post run coffee reward, I’d recommend Roots at the COMMONS Sala Daeng, 126 Soi Sala Daeng. Or pop into One Bangkok or Dusit Central Park for breakfast at one of the famous Thai food courts and some aircon.
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